All that was left was to connect the other end of the bead chain to the end of the servo control cable as before, and lock it in place as before.
I made another custom aluminum bracket to hold the Dash Mount Control. It mounts to the front brake reservoir clamp and allows the control to cover about half of the engine kill switch. The wiring from the Dash Mount Control can pass out the back of the bracket and under the handle bar. Ok now it was time to turn to that mess of wires that came with this project. The Rostra instructions provided little hint of the electrical function of each wire, only how they are typically installed in a truck or car.
The wiring diagram in the instructions proved to be helpful, but it was very small. I tried to determine the function of each wire that terminates in the Global Cruise and the Dash Mount Control, determining where each wire will go and labeling it. The other hardware in the above picture is a terminal strip which was attached to the Global Cruise and used as a local ground buss.
In the end this ground buss had four wires to it. Also three automotive micro relays were used. Since my brake lights are all LEDs, the cruise control would not sense enough resistance to disable the cruise when the brakes are applied. A T5 relay triggered by the brake is used to open contacts.
Likewise, I also wanted to disable the cruise when the clutch was pulled in. The NC contacts of the brake and clutch relays are wired in series so whenever either control is pulled, the cruise control will disable. That was explained in the instructions for the Dash Mount Control. I cut out all the fuses and connectors from the Rostra harness except for the Auxiliary Speed Sensor Connector, a two prong connector that is used to plug in the Speed Signal Generator.
I always choose to solder and shrink wrap wire connections where I can. I just refer to it as the "PC-8". Here are wire runs for the wires leaving the Dash Mount Control. See the picture below. All the wires from the Dash Mount Control are routed under the right handlebar into the right side of the frame and lead back to the battery location following the OEM wiring paths.
Now we will turn to those three relays that I require. Here are wire runs for the wires between the relays and those going to other devices. I assembled the three relays together in a pack, removing unused spade tabs and soldering the four [ 2] connections together. These connections were then insulated by painting on a sealant. It is important to have enough wire length to remove the Global Cruise from its compartment to allow access to the dip switches which now face to the front of the Valkyrie.
The mounting bracket for the Global Cruise supplied was cut down and attached with the screws supplied. That added a stable support for the Global Cruise within the compartment and provided an attachment surface for the relay pack. It was convenient to keep all this together, cutting down on the maze of wiring.
From the Global Cruise unit point of view, here are wire runs for the wires leaving the unit. Orange ENO Relay - coil 86 Note the location of the window into the dip switches. The local Ground Buss terminal was mounted on the end of the Global Cruise.
Is has the following connections. Here you see what the Eastern Beaver PC-8 looks like with the cover off. I still have room for one more switched circuit. What will it be? The Valkyries clutch interlock is actuated by a micro-switch below the clutch reservoir body, but that switch was tripped only when my clutch lever was actually touching the grip, well after the clutch was disengaged.
There has been times when the switch could not be tripped and thus the Valkyrie not started while in gear. When this was now also used to disengage the cruise control, I needed the switch to be tripped as the clutch was disengaging. The solution was to modify the clutch lever, adding a small pad to trip the micro-switch earlier in the throw of the clutch lever, while not damaging the plastic micro-switch.
The aluminum pad is J-B Welded to the clutch lever as shown below. On a Valkyrie Interstate, that can be tapped off the electronic speedometer. However the Valkyrie Standard and Tourer have a mechanical speedometer. While the location of the Speed Signal Generator is out of the way and hidden by saddle bags, it had a down side. To remove the rear wheel, one must first remove the bracket that holds the pickup coil. This can be done by loosing the axial nut, removing the pin which locks the caliper mounting bracket, rotating that bracket and unscrewing my aluminum bracket.
I realized this after I was well into the installation, but I found no better alternative location for the Speed Signal Generator. Nine of the magnets supplied were J-B Welded to the left inner hub of the rear wheel, just inside the brake disk. I then had to make an aluminum bracket that would locate the pickup coil close to the magnets. The geometry got complex so it had to be made in two pieces.
The first was a flat strap that screws into the rear brake rear brake caliper mounting bracket. Holes were drilled and tapped in the bracket to accomplish this. I then made an aluminum L-bracket and bolted the pickup coil to it. In the picture below we are getting the proper alignment of the pickup coil to the magnets.
After securing the two pieces of the bracket together with pop rivets and cleaning things up we get this. The grey and blue wire pair are routed along the top of the swing arm and then up to the Global Cruise.
I installed a set of spade connectors along the swing arm so the VSS assembly may be completely removed. That is now required to remove the rear wheel. Here is what the final installation looks like.
This control has a membrane on the front surface but was not designed for outside use. Tuning in the Global Cruise is required to get it in tune with the vehicle in which it is installed.
Hopefully we got that right because we can no longer get to it without a lot of work. I was concerned about the amount of travel that the throttle cross linkage has vs. Hopefully the Global Cruise is sensitive enough to not surge in the throttle adjustments.
Now the Global Cruise dip-switch's are set with 4 and 8 on, all other are off. I determined this after several runs on a hilly road, trying various other switch settings. This seemed to work the best. A couple of weeks ago, I managed to get the Valk out on I, making a run to Austin, 30 miles away. The Rostra operated fairly well but did have some quirks relating to sensitivity that I could probably live with but will try to eliminate. I thought one problem might be the amount of play in the beaded chain that pulls the throttle open.
But, after a close look, there appears to be little sag in it when the power of off. I got the additional six magnets installed a few days ago and had to turn on switch 4. Yesterday, I make run to Owatonna and Blooming Prairie to test out the latest change. I believe the additional PPM improved the smoothness of the control, but that was only my impression. I would hate to think that I pored the additional money down the drain. Note that, over time, I have been making some alterations to the Rostra installation and that may continue.
I will continue to document these changes to my VRCC Brothers and Sisters by making alterations to this original post and also appending another post on this thread. Readers only have to read this original post to see exactly what was done Nice write up.
Hopefully my AudioVox won't go out but if it does this will surely help. Looking forward to the rest. Good job Bob, and nice work, looks like you spent a few evenings getting all this ironed out.
I wonder what the pressure gauge by your coolant overflow bottle is for? The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed. Quote from: pancho on April 10, , PM. I have simply discovered that, at certain key moments in this life, you must find courage in yourself, in order to move forward and live.
It is like a muscle and it must be exercised, first a little, and then more and more. A deep breath and a leap. Bob, I'm curious about using four magnets vs. Do you think the angles they are attached at is crucial to the sensor reading the pulses correctly?
Also, do you think a non-LED brake light circuit would require the relays? I don't believe it is critical but I tried to keep the magnets as evenly spaced as possible. With the six screws that mount the rotor that was easy.
But four magnets should not be a problem with careful measurements between screws. I've been thinking that the Global Cruise may operate better if it is not operating at the lower extreme of its VSS range, so I have ten more magnets on the way to my door and I will use two of them to end up with six magnets on the hub. If you have an incandescent brake lamp, you don't need the brake relay. There may be an alternative for the Clutch relay, but I'm not sure.
I will continue to document these changes to my VRCC Brothers and Sisters by making alterations to the original post on this thread and also appending another post. Readers only have to read the original post to see exactly what was done With only 7 on, the control was a little under responsive. With too many switches on, the control is overly responsive which causes the throttle setting to surge.
Now I found that the "best" setting is to have only switch 8 on amoung these three switches Update: Pictures have returned to this thread. Photobucket be dammed Thanks for this Bob. I'm just about to do this after I make a set of pipes. Member Posts: 45 Gastonia, NC. Just ordered in the speed sensor and the extra magnets. Man, those are spendy!
What More Do I Need? Quote from: Houdini on May 04, , PM. Great write up! Nice job! That's how I went with the CSS and skipped the speed sensor. That also eliminated the need for the clutch lever signal as any rapid change in engine speed kicks out the control and it won't overrev Just curious.
CUAgain, Daniel Meyer. This worked very well as I was able to tap into the VSS plug from the front tire. Also, I was able to mount it so the switches could be accessed from just above the triple tree and below the center console after moving the rubber aside. This made it real easy to adjust as I configured it.
Tapping into the VSS is slightly touching. In the event that the throttle cable warrants replacement, cable replacement can be accomplished fairly easily. Selecting and sourcing a new throttle cable is equally important as carrying out the work. ProX offers throttle cables made by OE manufacturers at affordable prices. ProX throttle cables are made with pre-lubricated nylon inner sleeves, tightly-wound steel inner cables, and a flexible PVC outer jacket, which, combined, ensure smooth cable operation and long life.
Find ProX cables for your model here. The architecture of your specific machine will largely dictate what must be removed in order to successfully replace your throttle cable. Typically, the following components will need to be removed:. Once the necessary components have been removed, replacing the throttle cable is straightforward. We'll walk through the necessary steps with the assumption that we're working on a dual cable machine.
The steps for a single cable application are nearly identical. Start by loosening the throttle cable adjusters on the throttle housing and slackening the cables. Next, remove the fasteners holding the throttle cable housing together. Once removed from the handlebar remove the throttle cable ends from the throttle cable housing pulley. Note the accelerator and decelerator cable positions. Remove any necessary covers from the throttle body or carburetor to gain access to the throttle cable ends.
Note the locations of the accelerator and decelerator cables prior to removing them. Loosen the necessary lock nuts and adjusters then remove the cable ends from the pulley. On single cable carbureted applications featuring round or oval slide carburetors, unscrew the top cap of the carburetor where the throttle cable enters the slide. Compress the return spring and carefully remove any necessary hardware securing the cable end to the slide. Once removed, the cable can be loosened and removed from the carburetor cap.
Prepare the new throttle cables by applying cable lube to both ends of the cables. Check the smoothness of the cables by moving them back and forth prior to installation. Once the old throttle cables are free on both ends, note how they have been routed. Then, remove the cables and route the new cables in a similar fashion. If the old cable routing is suspect, confirm with your service manual the factory prescribed cable routings.
Upon successful cable routing, begin the reassembly process. Turn the cable adjusters on the throttle grip housing all the way in, then turn each of them one turn out. Once this is done, unless otherwise specified, use the throttle body or carburetor adjustment features to take the majority of the slack out of the cables. Refer to the tips outlined in the cable tension adjustment section to correctly tension the throttle cables. After the cable tensions have been set, be sure to check the functionality of the throttle return as prescribed previously.
Once the new throttle cables have been installed and the return checks are complete, finish the job by reinstalling any items that required removal to gain access to the cable system. With everything reinstalled, test the functionality of the system first with the engine off, then with the engine idling to ensure there are no abnormalities. Topics: featured , Powersports , Tech. Search the blog. The throttle cable is a critical component to your bike's function, but it's often overlooked.
Follow the guidelines below to make sure you're not stuck with a malfunctioning throttle. We'll be replacing the throttle cable on this used CRFR. Be sure to reference the owner's manual of the model you're working on. Do your best to visually follow the routing the of the throttle cable to inspect for damage and wear regularly.
You can measure throttle cable free play by marking the grip in accordance with a reference point, such as the split in the throttle cable housing. Twist the throttle until you feel resistance, and measure the amount of movement.
With the bike OFF, twist the trottle open to the stop and let go. Make sure the throttle returns to the closed position quickly and easily. Perform this test with the handlebars turned to both extremes, as well as at multiple positions in between.
Remove any dust covers from your throttle cable housing and determine which cable is the accelerator and which one is the decelerator. Cables can be adjusted using the appropriate size wrench. Turn in to slacken, and out to tension. Feel the throttle as you adjust to know how close you are. Typically, the decelerator is adjusted first.
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