In addition to the chain working on the rear cogs and rear derailleur the chain must be compatible with the front chain rings. The spacing between front rings for a 8 or 9 speed chainring set will be relatively wide. Using a narrow 10 or 11 speed chain may result in the tendency for it to fall between the two rings during a shift.
Drivetrain manufacturers design their chains to work as a system with the derailleurs, rear sprockets, and shift levers.
Chains can vary in side plate shape, sizing, and height. Differences can cause variations in shifting performance between brands and models.
Additionally, chains will vary in the quality of steel used. Better chains that are more durable and longer lasting tend to have harder rivets. Riding a bike tends to wear and thin the rivet as it is pulled against the inner plates. When in doubt about chain selection, it is usually best to stick the the drivetrain manufacturers chains. It does get more complex when components become mixed.
Some chains can be used between different brands. Consult a professional mechanic for recommendations. Trade Resources. Some nominal widths measured across the rivet between chains are: 12 rear cogs — 5. Feed the chain through the rear derailleur as shown. Be aware of any tabs on the derailleur cage and route the chain on the correct side of the tab. Bring the chain inside the frame, through the front derailleur, and bring both ends of the chain together.
If connecting a chain using a master link, inspect your master link for any arrows indicating the direction of travel. Connect the master link and engage it using master link pliers such as the MLP Engage the pliers and pull outward to seat the link. An alternate method for connecting the master link is to position the master link on the upper run of chain, apply the rear brake, and apply force to the pedals. Inspect to make sure the master link is fully engaged. Now we will connect a chain that uses a special connecting rivet.
The connecting rivet has special flaring that is guided in by a long, tapered pilot after the rivet is fully installed. Each rivet is specific to the make and model of chain, so be sure to use the proper connecting rivet for your chain.
Lubricate the connecting rivet, and install the connecting rivet from the inside of the bike towards the mechanic. Engage the chain tool and drive the connecting rivet into the chain. There will be two points of resistance as the rivet goes into the chain. The first will be as rivet begins to go in through the first cage plate.
The resistance will let up as the rivet continues into the chain and will then ramp up again as the rivets begins to go through the second outer cage plate. Match the depth of the neighboring rivets. If this depth looks good, you can go ahead and break off the pilot tip of the connecting rivet.
Using a chain tool with a peening anvil like the CT Run the driving pin of the chain tool up to contact so the rivet sits between the anvil and the pin. Press an additional quarter of a turn on the chain tool and you are done.
Now the the pilot tip has been broken off, you can see a good case for driving the pin from the inside out. The burr left after breaking off the pilot is now facing out from the cassette or cogs and cannot come into contact with any part of the drivetrain and make additional noise or cause any shifting problems. Reinstall the wheel and backpedal to inspect for any tight links.
Repair as necessary by flexing the chain laterally at the tight link. Your new chain is now installed. Once your chain is installed, if you encounter any problems such as skipping, it could be a symptom of a worn cassette or freewheel cogs so you might need to replace those if you have used a worn chain for too long without replacing. Trade Resources. What Tools do I need? Chain Tool MLP Slight bend at each derailleur pulley Chain should not contact itself.
Connecting rivet Drive out pin in a straight line. Align outer plates to outer plates. Correct chain route Pay attention to any tabs.
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